If you want good shaves you can rely on for years balanced with minimal long-term expense, you might not think you have options but you do.
The
first happens to be the oldest: buy a quality straight razor. However, it isn't every man who trusts himself with a cutthroat (I know I don't). And some of us just like the straightforward simplicity of 20th century style wetshaving; meaning, with disposable blades.
Disposables and cheaper cartridge razors may seem cost effective but in the long run - we're talking years or decades here - they're not. True, they're convenient, ubiquitous and most of them give at least acceptable if not excellent shaves. But their first problem is "planned obsolescence." That means a disposable or cartridge razor you swear by today will be an inferior product in ten years, maybe even in five, to force you to buy the manufacturer's 'next big thing.' Second: most carts, no matter how many or few blades it has, tend to not last as long as single or double edge blades both due to their lower initial quality and because they can barely be maintained (if at all) to increase their longevity, the way individual loose blades often can.
Injectors are a venerable, highly respectable option and I am a fan. However, I leave this option off the list only because blades have recently become much more difficult, thus more expensive, to obtain. I always had relatively good longevity from my injectors blades no matter which brand I used so no longer being able to walk into a store to buy them is a pity.
In my opinion, the main thing to consider is a minimal outlay of cash for the razor itself. Below are three excellent choices you could go with, each ranked on a very loose formula taking into account availability, reliability, maintainability and cost.
1. The Rolls Razor. Oft described, accurately so, as "a straight razor on a stick," a properly maintained Rolls will provide a literal lifetime of straight razor-close shaves. Once you've bought it nothing further need be purchased. Ever. Given it's fairly wide availability and the generally good (or at least restorable) condition in which they're found, ounce for ounce it is the best value on this list. However, at least one tradeoff will be a consistently unforgiving shaver that requires practice and constant attention to master, plus the absolute necessity of habitual maintenance, though that process couldn't be any easier the designers of the Rolls made it.
2. A vintage single edge razor. Pictured is my Gem Heavy Flat Top, aka the G-bar, but there are many excellent SE razors ranging from specimens from the very early 1900s up to the 1980s. These are readily available in a wide variety of conditions, qualities, styles and aggressiveness. The trick will be to obtain a good stock of reliable blades that works for your face. Guaranteed, not every SE blade will agree with you. However, they are widely available, relatively cheap and probably not going anywhere soon...which is why SE razors are on this list. Carbon SE blades can be stropped and honed - increasing their life, thus increasing your savings. In fact, they can be brought to the point where they are virtually as sharp as a Rolls wedge blade (which is probably too sharp, truth be told).
3. The Shake Sharp razor. This oddball is the one razor I'm aware of that actually succeeds in maintaining otherwise disposable DE blades by use of an installed hone. As the Shakey gets more exposure within the wetshaving community, though, a consensus appears to be forming that stainless steel blades are best left unhoned. That means to get the full, true value out of even a cheaply obtained Shake Sharp, one probably (though not necessarily) needs to have already become accustomed the quirks of using carbon double edge blades. While most of us carbon-heads lean toward vintage stock (only because they're so many of them floating around out there for next to nothing) there is at least one brand in current production which I've not tried. Whether that fact makes the Shake Sharp desirable is up to you. Though it's a fantastic shaver no matter what blade you use, if you're a die-hard stainless user it's probably not worth your time to wait for one to show up.
These are just a few suggestions from a guy who isn't dreading the arrival of some Shavepocalypse, Bladepocalypse or whatever, but just wants to be a cheapskate because, dang it, that's what I am. As a result, the three razors pictured above are now 90% of my usual shaving routine.
The goal is a enjoyably good shave. How you get it is all up to you, so let no man say thee, "Nay!"
Sunday, October 14, 2012
Sunday, October 7, 2012
REVIEW: Vintage Ingram Lather Shave
Is it right to go about trying old shaving creams and aftershaves you find at antique shops? In my experience, the answer is an emphatic YES! if they are full, or nearly so, if you have no reason to suspect the contents have been adulterated, and if the price is right.
Today, this dandy little 2 oz jar cost me $4.50; even if it flopped, I figured it'd look nice sitting on my bathroom shelf but, being 98% full, I was hopeful.
Ingram (or a company so named) apparently still makes shave cream that is said to be strong on the menthol.
This jar, made in the U.S. by Bristol-Myers back who knows when (I believe this one is post-war) isn't particularly strong on menthol, perhaps due to age. What it does have is a subtle, background menthol kick to it. It won't open up your sinuses but it does give a mild, cool, lasting tingle. Better yet, it's got a pleasant bergamot (I think) scent, which seemed to be a common fragrance in men's products back in the heyday of wet shaving.
So how did it work?
Latherwise, four or five swirls atop the jar with a old dampened Ever-Ready boar brush (I'm a cheapskate if you haven't noticed) whipped up an impressive amount of lather...not the mounds of whipped cream I see some guys getting but I have no doubt this would have done similarly if the effort was put into it.
It also provided excellent coverage - I'm a committed face-latherer - resulting in a very smooth, comfortable shave with my current go-to pair of the Shake Sharp and Big Ben blade.
The only drawback I can name is that my face is noticeably dryer and tighter than I'm used to from using Tabac. That tightness is not something I really mind, though, so I don't consider it a minus. The faint fragrance is lingering, too.
I don't know about the new stuff but this ancient Ingrams is not as face-freezing as C.O. Bigelow/ Proraso (again, probably just due to age) but for some, that might be a nice thing. When I'm in the mood for COLD! I reach for my supermentholated Osage Rub/witch hazel/Skin Bracer concoction. Since temps just dipped into the 40s, today is not that day.
Is this product recommended? Yes, if you have a time machine or, much more likely, you see a full jar sitting on the shelf in a shop. Since I'm not planning to use this every shave, I expect to get a few years enjoyment out of this little jar, for far less than I'd have paid for a comparable modern product.
MORAL OF THE STORY: When going into antique shops, don't just limit yourself to razors. EVERYTHING shave related - blades, soaps, creams and more - can and do show up, and sometimes you find a sweet deal that makes your shaving day.
Today, this dandy little 2 oz jar cost me $4.50; even if it flopped, I figured it'd look nice sitting on my bathroom shelf but, being 98% full, I was hopeful.
Ingram (or a company so named) apparently still makes shave cream that is said to be strong on the menthol.
This jar, made in the U.S. by Bristol-Myers back who knows when (I believe this one is post-war) isn't particularly strong on menthol, perhaps due to age. What it does have is a subtle, background menthol kick to it. It won't open up your sinuses but it does give a mild, cool, lasting tingle. Better yet, it's got a pleasant bergamot (I think) scent, which seemed to be a common fragrance in men's products back in the heyday of wet shaving.
So how did it work?
Latherwise, four or five swirls atop the jar with a old dampened Ever-Ready boar brush (I'm a cheapskate if you haven't noticed) whipped up an impressive amount of lather...not the mounds of whipped cream I see some guys getting but I have no doubt this would have done similarly if the effort was put into it.
It also provided excellent coverage - I'm a committed face-latherer - resulting in a very smooth, comfortable shave with my current go-to pair of the Shake Sharp and Big Ben blade.
The only drawback I can name is that my face is noticeably dryer and tighter than I'm used to from using Tabac. That tightness is not something I really mind, though, so I don't consider it a minus. The faint fragrance is lingering, too.
I don't know about the new stuff but this ancient Ingrams is not as face-freezing as C.O. Bigelow/ Proraso (again, probably just due to age) but for some, that might be a nice thing. When I'm in the mood for COLD! I reach for my supermentholated Osage Rub/witch hazel/Skin Bracer concoction. Since temps just dipped into the 40s, today is not that day.
Is this product recommended? Yes, if you have a time machine or, much more likely, you see a full jar sitting on the shelf in a shop. Since I'm not planning to use this every shave, I expect to get a few years enjoyment out of this little jar, for far less than I'd have paid for a comparable modern product.
MORAL OF THE STORY: When going into antique shops, don't just limit yourself to razors. EVERYTHING shave related - blades, soaps, creams and more - can and do show up, and sometimes you find a sweet deal that makes your shaving day.
(this ad dates from 1936; several others like it
can be found on Google Images)
Monday, October 1, 2012
REVIEW: Remington Azor
I did not plan to review this razor because I figured it couldn't be much different from its sister, the Remington "S" which I reviewed below. But when I found several on clearance at Big Lots for $5 (including THREE carts), I just had to give it a shot. You know how it is.
Cut to the chase: The Azor is a pleasant surprise. It is superior to the "S" for sure - any positives I gave the "S" apply to the Azor, and then some. Feel-wise and result-wise, it is dead comparable to my personal gold standard for cart shavers, the Gillette Pro-Glide.In short: The "S" is meh. The Azor is VERY GOOD.
Details: I wasn't expecting to find any but the Azor has a few pluses over the "S." First, the two flex points that hold the cart are softer and much more flexible right out of the package, meaning I did not have to flex them for 15 minutes like I did with the "S" in order to get a somewhat improved shave. Second, the more traditionally narrow handle is much more grip-friendly, at least for face shaving. Third, the handle also has some metal content, giving it some weight and thereby making it easier to maneuver, paradoxically, than the near-weightless "S." Fourth, it has superb balance and I did not have to shove the razor against my face in order to take off whiskers, the way I did with the "S."
I just took off a day and a half's growth in under five minutes with zero irritation, and did so in just two passes. Most of that was ATG but that's normal for me with this type of razor.
Going by hand feel, the results are no different than I get with the Pro-Glide...that is to say, BBS. I managed to get the same with the "S" but it took longer and was so much more work that my hand ached afterwards. This time? Nothing.
The only problem I can point to is that the lube strip is lacking. I know a lot of guys dislike them and some even remove them before shaving; however, I've come to enjoy them and the slimier they better. These carts might as well have a strip of white plastic running across the top, as useless as it is.
Conclusion: I really can't come up with any negatives for the Azor except for the lack of lube strip. So if you're looking for a good travel razor that CANNOT screw up your shave, or are just curious, find and buy it. Since they're now showing up at Big Lots, I'll take that as a sign that they're about to be discontinued, if they haven't been already.
I'll be stocking up just for the carts...five bucks for three carts versus almost $20 for four Pro-Glide carts? I'm not great at math but even I can figure this one out.
Cut to the chase: The Azor is a pleasant surprise. It is superior to the "S" for sure - any positives I gave the "S" apply to the Azor, and then some. Feel-wise and result-wise, it is dead comparable to my personal gold standard for cart shavers, the Gillette Pro-Glide.In short: The "S" is meh. The Azor is VERY GOOD.
Details: I wasn't expecting to find any but the Azor has a few pluses over the "S." First, the two flex points that hold the cart are softer and much more flexible right out of the package, meaning I did not have to flex them for 15 minutes like I did with the "S" in order to get a somewhat improved shave. Second, the more traditionally narrow handle is much more grip-friendly, at least for face shaving. Third, the handle also has some metal content, giving it some weight and thereby making it easier to maneuver, paradoxically, than the near-weightless "S." Fourth, it has superb balance and I did not have to shove the razor against my face in order to take off whiskers, the way I did with the "S."
I just took off a day and a half's growth in under five minutes with zero irritation, and did so in just two passes. Most of that was ATG but that's normal for me with this type of razor.
Going by hand feel, the results are no different than I get with the Pro-Glide...that is to say, BBS. I managed to get the same with the "S" but it took longer and was so much more work that my hand ached afterwards. This time? Nothing.
The only problem I can point to is that the lube strip is lacking. I know a lot of guys dislike them and some even remove them before shaving; however, I've come to enjoy them and the slimier they better. These carts might as well have a strip of white plastic running across the top, as useless as it is.
Conclusion: I really can't come up with any negatives for the Azor except for the lack of lube strip. So if you're looking for a good travel razor that CANNOT screw up your shave, or are just curious, find and buy it. Since they're now showing up at Big Lots, I'll take that as a sign that they're about to be discontinued, if they haven't been already.
I'll be stocking up just for the carts...five bucks for three carts versus almost $20 for four Pro-Glide carts? I'm not great at math but even I can figure this one out.
Friday, September 28, 2012
REVIEW: Silver Star carbon blades
I am a big fan of carbon blades and this particular brand - extinct for 50 years now - is hands down my favorite carbon. I've given samples to others who have verified what I found to be true: these "Duridium" (heh) blades are surprisingly smooth. Are they as smooth as finer stainless blades? No, but they do have two advantages. (1) they are as smooth as some low to mid-grade stainless blades, which carbons tend not to be, BUT (2) being carbons, they can be stropped and honed to maintain their superior cutting edge.
The sealed lot pictured above is well worth the $10 shipped I paid for them because I know they give consistently smooth shaves which, with my Shake Sharp razor, will now last longer than they otherwise would.
Highly recommended if you have the chance to try them.
(by the way, that's blade wax you see on the opened blade...it's the first time I've seen one that heavily done)
Saturday, September 22, 2012
REVIEW: Silver Star safety razor
The Silver Star Feather Weight razor is a sleeper. Unlike the gold plated version of this razor, which is all brass and struck me as somewhat off-balance, the FW's handle and blade deck are unplated aluminum (only the cap is nickel plated brass).
This is the lightest DE razor I've ever used. Weight-wise, the only thing I can compare it to is a very cheap plastic disposable. Not hollow Bic disposable light, but close. The balance actually isn't an issue because even with a brass cap, there's no weight to speak of so it handles surprisingly well. The slightly too-short handle isn't an issue, either, as it is on the heavier gold one. The balance is near perfect here.
Having shaved with it several times using a variety of stainless blades, the exposure feels comparable to your average Tech. And that's okay - paired with the right blade (and so far I haven't had a bad match but sharper is probably better in this case) the near-weightless shave, maneuverability and killer grip more than makes up for what it lacks in teeth.
This is the lightest DE razor I've ever used. Weight-wise, the only thing I can compare it to is a very cheap plastic disposable. Not hollow Bic disposable light, but close. The balance actually isn't an issue because even with a brass cap, there's no weight to speak of so it handles surprisingly well. The slightly too-short handle isn't an issue, either, as it is on the heavier gold one. The balance is near perfect here.
Having shaved with it several times using a variety of stainless blades, the exposure feels comparable to your average Tech. And that's okay - paired with the right blade (and so far I haven't had a bad match but sharper is probably better in this case) the near-weightless shave, maneuverability and killer grip more than makes up for what it lacks in teeth.
DOES THE SHAKE SHARP'S HONE MAINTAIN OR IMPROVE A STAINLESS STEEL BLADE'S PERFORMANCE?
Short answer: Doesn't look like it.
While a minority disagrees with them, I've long read reports from guys who said stropping and honing blades just does not work for them. In fact, it is widely reported that using traditional strop devices actually DEGRADED the quality of the shave.
In my experience, these guys are correct insofar as they're talking about modern stainless steel blades, which they almost always are. While carbon blades are maintainable with post-shave drying, stropping and honing, the very few times I tried the same routine with stainless blades, the results were either inconclusive (meaning I noticed no difference) or the next shave was slightly but noticeably worse.
Now that I have the Shake Sharp, and despite saying I'd never use it to hone a stainless blade, I figured it was the best time to put the idea to bed one way or the other. I used a perfectly usable Big Ben blade (on it's 3rd shave and starting to drag just a bit) with the built-in hone. Result: the fourth shave was considerably degraded.
I am no expert and don't want to be but the only guess I can come up with is that the multiple bevels common on modern blades are screwed up when the blade is treated like a vintage carbon. I can't think of another reason why a stainless steel edge would go from "used but still OK" to "definitely worse," whereas carbon blades - which I don't think were as complexly beveled - invariably improve.
While the Big Ben stainless and the Shake Sharp are a fantastic shaving combo, I've confirmed my gut feeling to avoid using the Shake Sharp's hone to work over stainless blades. If other guys can perceive improvements from honing stainless, I heartily say, more power and better shaves to them.
My review of the Shake Sharp itself here.
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
REVIEW: Big Ben stainless blade
Smoothness is paramount to me. I'll take a less-sharp but consistently smooth blade any day over an ultrasharp blade that may get the job done faster but, no matter how careful you are, is just as eager to remove epidermis as it is whiskers. So while my search for razors is pretty much completed (...I think...) I'm always interested in trying new blades that are reputed to be smooth shavers, and the cheaper, the better.
One of these is the Big Ben, a pack of which was graciously gifted to me by a respected member of the wetshaving community.
I don't have much to say on this blade, or any blade, except the basics of what I like or don't like. The reason is because my experience with stainless blades, unlike carbons, is relatively limited and, admittedly, rather pedestrian...I'll try any blade once, without caring much about its pedigree, packaging, printing, wax spots, flavor of machine oil, which shift at what plant in Upper Slobovia made it, etc (it's fine and dandy that others dig that minutiae, I just don't).
Anyway, even after one shave I can say that I like the Big Ben. As the recommendation said, it is smooth and performed excellently in my Shake Sharp - no nicks, no scrapes, no irritation. How much of that is attributable to the relatively mild Shake Sharp or to the relatively mild Big Ben? No idea. Don't care. Are they consistently smooth from blade to blade and pack to pack? Again, I dunno but I'll find out.
While it does not seem as keen as a Feather (treacherously sharp but tolerable), Astra (very good) or Voshkod (disliked it on the first shave), for me it's smoother than any of them. It definitely blows Derby out of the water on all fronts and is on par with another new favorite, the Blue Bird...though the Big Ben seems a hair smoother. In fact, if I were shaving blindfolded the Big Ben could be mistaken for my all-time favorite stainless blade, the early '60s era Gillette stainless. As far as value goes, it appears to be a winner given its smoothness and its superior shave (sharper, I guess) to the readily available Dorcos, with which I have no problem. No blade snob, I.
I've a stock of about 50 of those fantastic old Gillette blades that I'm always hesitant to break into...but when I just HAVE to have the nicest shave I can get, rather than just a serviceable one, those old Gillette stainless are what I reach for. Now I won't have to because I've found a comparable alternative. I'll be ordering some of these Big Bens soon and unhesitatingly recommend trying them just once to anyone who wants a smooth blade that gets the job done right (that IS based on shaves from just the first blade so take this recommendation for what it's worth...YMMV).
UPDATE: 100 Big Ben blades are on their way to me from merry ol' England. Here's hoping they're consistent.
One of these is the Big Ben, a pack of which was graciously gifted to me by a respected member of the wetshaving community.
I don't have much to say on this blade, or any blade, except the basics of what I like or don't like. The reason is because my experience with stainless blades, unlike carbons, is relatively limited and, admittedly, rather pedestrian...I'll try any blade once, without caring much about its pedigree, packaging, printing, wax spots, flavor of machine oil, which shift at what plant in Upper Slobovia made it, etc (it's fine and dandy that others dig that minutiae, I just don't).
Anyway, even after one shave I can say that I like the Big Ben. As the recommendation said, it is smooth and performed excellently in my Shake Sharp - no nicks, no scrapes, no irritation. How much of that is attributable to the relatively mild Shake Sharp or to the relatively mild Big Ben? No idea. Don't care. Are they consistently smooth from blade to blade and pack to pack? Again, I dunno but I'll find out.
While it does not seem as keen as a Feather (treacherously sharp but tolerable), Astra (very good) or Voshkod (disliked it on the first shave), for me it's smoother than any of them. It definitely blows Derby out of the water on all fronts and is on par with another new favorite, the Blue Bird...though the Big Ben seems a hair smoother. In fact, if I were shaving blindfolded the Big Ben could be mistaken for my all-time favorite stainless blade, the early '60s era Gillette stainless. As far as value goes, it appears to be a winner given its smoothness and its superior shave (sharper, I guess) to the readily available Dorcos, with which I have no problem. No blade snob, I.
I've a stock of about 50 of those fantastic old Gillette blades that I'm always hesitant to break into...but when I just HAVE to have the nicest shave I can get, rather than just a serviceable one, those old Gillette stainless are what I reach for. Now I won't have to because I've found a comparable alternative. I'll be ordering some of these Big Bens soon and unhesitatingly recommend trying them just once to anyone who wants a smooth blade that gets the job done right (that IS based on shaves from just the first blade so take this recommendation for what it's worth...YMMV).
UPDATE: 100 Big Ben blades are on their way to me from merry ol' England. Here's hoping they're consistent.
Monday, September 17, 2012
REVIEW: Remington "S" (aka Azor)
Seen here: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Remington-S-Women-s-Razor/20681462
The "S" is marketed for ladies but the carts and the "S-Flex" attachment mechanism are apparently identical to those used in the men's verison, the Azor. Only real difference is color and shape of the lower part of the handle, but the "S" is a bit cheaper.
PROS: As with the disaster I reviewed yesterday, if it shaved well the price and availability would be an advantage. The color is nice; I actually prefer the look of the woman's version over the cheaper chrome-looking man's Azor. Good grippiness to it. Aaaaaaaad...that's about it.
CONS: The shave is markedly improved over the disaster I reviewed yesterday - meaning only that it was far less uncomfortable and drew no blood. Surprisingly, though, it did not shave quite as well, either. Whereas the DG cheapie got me BBS on the face but tore up my neck, the "S" gave me more or less a disappointing SAS on both face and neck (my neck had healed enough to try it out). I could have taken the "S" for another pass but saw no point of going past 2.
The reason the DG razor performed better, at least in terms of removing skin, is because its cart pivots pretty much exactly like the Proglide does and so does a good job following the contours of the face. Too bad the cart sucks so bad.
These Remington razors, on the other hand, have an entirely unique design: the cart is mounted on two flexible arms called the "S-Flex," which are quite stiff...at least at first, perhaps they loosen up with use.
Anyway, the handle's stiffness means the cartridge is largely unresponsive to the curves and contours of the face and so does not shave well using typical technique. This in turn makes the large cart - large when compared with, say, the immobile Trac II - that much harder to maneuver. One immediately feels the need to press harder to force it to hug the curves but this, obviously, would be counterproductive. No doubt this stiffness might be preferable for some women to leg-shave, but it is just too stiff to use on the face, and the apparent quality of the blades do not make up for that weakness.
As stated, the men's version appears to have this same incongruously stiff "flexible" head design. If that makes you think this could be a really cool 5-blade version of the venerable Trac II...sorry, but so did I. It isn't. The smaller Trac II is far more maneuverable and efficient.
Verdict: A so-so face shaver, safe enough to use but appropriate only for when you don't need to look your best. It could be frustrating to use because the design is so different, you quickly realize you have to put in a headache-inducing combination of close attention and physical effort to MAKE it shave what needs shaved without pressing too hard. But even if you're up to that task, the quality of the cart will likely leave you with a SAS at most. I predict you'd probably see that coming mid-shave, get mad and grab another razor before you're halfway through. The innate stiffness probably makes it a dandy leg shaver for some ladies, though.
The ONLY way I can see this razor improving is if those S-Flex arms loosen up some over time...if they do, without getting too sloppy-floppy or breaking outright (no idea if there's a wire core in them), then it's possible these Remington's carts have potential that you just cannot tap with a brand new, too stiff handle. We'll see, as I'm not trashing this one (yet).
Since the purpose of these reviews are to have fun comparing the multi-blade monstrosities so popular today, I use the Proglide as the standard. By that measure, the "S," and its brother the Azor, no doubt, are nice tries but just don't measure up (at least not right outta the box).
[Later that week...]
After several dozen bends, the head now flexes so far back that it can be doubled over backwards. Not that anyone would need it to do that to shave but it apparently did improve this one. The overall experience was better because the razor was more responsive...less effort, thus less headache. The shave of 2 days growth was better as well.
Hand feel-wise, the half of my face I did first is 100% BBS with no irritation (all ATG), which inspired me to go grab the wife's Proglide to use on the others side. As expected, the PG side is about 97% BBS after 1.5 passes (also all ATG) but only because it's an old cart...brand new it's 100%. Still, no irritation. Overall, an excellent shave, both sides.
Visibly, there's no difference between the sides. No whiskers visible and the neck is as clean as the face.
The sole drawbacks are the slightly lesser quality blades on the Remington. They will get essentially the same result as the PG but, even now, still takes more work. Second drawback: the ladies' handle is less hand-friendly than the men's, but that's not really Remington's fault.
VERDICT: If Remington's blades were just a hair better, this would be a top-level contender of any cart shaver out there. You can get a guaranteed DFS and very nearly BBS in two passes, and that with - it bears repeating - no irritation whatsoever.
While I would not use this as a daily shaver unless I had to (only because the price is still higher than I'd want to regularly pay, and would switch to the Azor if I did), I would not hesitate recommending the "S" or the Azor for travel, for four reasons:
1. You WILL get a smooth DFS+, minimum
2. It's near impossible to cut or even irritate yourself before important business functions
3. With the cutting load being shared by five edges rather than one or two, a single cart - properly maintained - could last for many months of travel (I've found surprisingly good longevity to be an unexpected advantage of multiblade carts...the better quality ones, anyway...whether Remington's is one of those, no idea...I tend to doubt it)
4. If you lose it, you're out $4.97
The "S" is marketed for ladies but the carts and the "S-Flex" attachment mechanism are apparently identical to those used in the men's verison, the Azor. Only real difference is color and shape of the lower part of the handle, but the "S" is a bit cheaper.
PROS: As with the disaster I reviewed yesterday, if it shaved well the price and availability would be an advantage. The color is nice; I actually prefer the look of the woman's version over the cheaper chrome-looking man's Azor. Good grippiness to it. Aaaaaaaad...that's about it.
CONS: The shave is markedly improved over the disaster I reviewed yesterday - meaning only that it was far less uncomfortable and drew no blood. Surprisingly, though, it did not shave quite as well, either. Whereas the DG cheapie got me BBS on the face but tore up my neck, the "S" gave me more or less a disappointing SAS on both face and neck (my neck had healed enough to try it out). I could have taken the "S" for another pass but saw no point of going past 2.
The reason the DG razor performed better, at least in terms of removing skin, is because its cart pivots pretty much exactly like the Proglide does and so does a good job following the contours of the face. Too bad the cart sucks so bad.
These Remington razors, on the other hand, have an entirely unique design: the cart is mounted on two flexible arms called the "S-Flex," which are quite stiff...at least at first, perhaps they loosen up with use.
Anyway, the handle's stiffness means the cartridge is largely unresponsive to the curves and contours of the face and so does not shave well using typical technique. This in turn makes the large cart - large when compared with, say, the immobile Trac II - that much harder to maneuver. One immediately feels the need to press harder to force it to hug the curves but this, obviously, would be counterproductive. No doubt this stiffness might be preferable for some women to leg-shave, but it is just too stiff to use on the face, and the apparent quality of the blades do not make up for that weakness.
As stated, the men's version appears to have this same incongruously stiff "flexible" head design. If that makes you think this could be a really cool 5-blade version of the venerable Trac II...sorry, but so did I. It isn't. The smaller Trac II is far more maneuverable and efficient.
Verdict: A so-so face shaver, safe enough to use but appropriate only for when you don't need to look your best. It could be frustrating to use because the design is so different, you quickly realize you have to put in a headache-inducing combination of close attention and physical effort to MAKE it shave what needs shaved without pressing too hard. But even if you're up to that task, the quality of the cart will likely leave you with a SAS at most. I predict you'd probably see that coming mid-shave, get mad and grab another razor before you're halfway through. The innate stiffness probably makes it a dandy leg shaver for some ladies, though.
The ONLY way I can see this razor improving is if those S-Flex arms loosen up some over time...if they do, without getting too sloppy-floppy or breaking outright (no idea if there's a wire core in them), then it's possible these Remington's carts have potential that you just cannot tap with a brand new, too stiff handle. We'll see, as I'm not trashing this one (yet).
Since the purpose of these reviews are to have fun comparing the multi-blade monstrosities so popular today, I use the Proglide as the standard. By that measure, the "S," and its brother the Azor, no doubt, are nice tries but just don't measure up (at least not right outta the box).
[Later that week...]
After several dozen bends, the head now flexes so far back that it can be doubled over backwards. Not that anyone would need it to do that to shave but it apparently did improve this one. The overall experience was better because the razor was more responsive...less effort, thus less headache. The shave of 2 days growth was better as well.
Hand feel-wise, the half of my face I did first is 100% BBS with no irritation (all ATG), which inspired me to go grab the wife's Proglide to use on the others side. As expected, the PG side is about 97% BBS after 1.5 passes (also all ATG) but only because it's an old cart...brand new it's 100%. Still, no irritation. Overall, an excellent shave, both sides.
Visibly, there's no difference between the sides. No whiskers visible and the neck is as clean as the face.
The sole drawbacks are the slightly lesser quality blades on the Remington. They will get essentially the same result as the PG but, even now, still takes more work. Second drawback: the ladies' handle is less hand-friendly than the men's, but that's not really Remington's fault.
VERDICT: If Remington's blades were just a hair better, this would be a top-level contender of any cart shaver out there. You can get a guaranteed DFS and very nearly BBS in two passes, and that with - it bears repeating - no irritation whatsoever.
While I would not use this as a daily shaver unless I had to (only because the price is still higher than I'd want to regularly pay, and would switch to the Azor if I did), I would not hesitate recommending the "S" or the Azor for travel, for four reasons:
1. You WILL get a smooth DFS+, minimum
2. It's near impossible to cut or even irritate yourself before important business functions
3. With the cutting load being shared by five edges rather than one or two, a single cart - properly maintained - could last for many months of travel (I've found surprisingly good longevity to be an unexpected advantage of multiblade carts...the better quality ones, anyway...whether Remington's is one of those, no idea...I tend to doubt it)
4. If you lose it, you're out $4.97
REVIEW: Dollar General 5-blade razor
Pros:
Handle has metal content and so feels more substantial than the
partly chrome-plated all-plastic PG. Actually feels better in the
hand. The head pivots much the same way as the PG's does, which is a
plus. It has no largely useless vibrating gimmick. The lube strip is
camouflaged - at first I thought it was just a useless strip of
matching orange plastic but lo and behold, there it is. Really slimes
you up on multiple passes. A box of 2 carts costs over $3.50; now, if
it were as good a shaver as the PG, or even close, that'd be a
dealmaker for me. However...
Cons:
The five blades mimic the smoothness of the PG but only to about 75%
as smooth, which still isn't that bad. I've used worse. In fact, on
the face I got a 2 pass true BBS, so it was a dead tie with the PG on
that point.
Baffling,
though, is how BADLY it did on my neck. I could not endure more than
two passes (and this was using extra-thick layers of Tabac, with lots
of hot water prep, and as little pressure as I could on the 2nd
pass). Still, I ended up with neck bleeders, weepers and razor burn
the like of which I have not had since using the Xtreme-3 disposables
which forced me to look into DE in the first place. Really strange
that it can give great results on the face but HORRIBLE on the neck.
Also,
the trim blade atop the cartridge is situated differently - and
stupidly - than the PG's. That is, this trim blade is oriented
STRAIGHT UP from the top of the cartridge, meaning to use it you have
to old the entire thing at 90° to your face and even then, it isn't
effective. Bad, bad planning, that.
Verdict:
Too bad that the neck shave killed it. Worth experimenting but not
worth buying again. Will give it to the wife as a backup leg shaver.
REVIEW: The Shake Sharp razor, "The Razor that Sharpens Itself."
I'm not much for hype, positive or negative (I like to think I'm not, anyway). Like the Marines I worked with taught me, "If it's stupid but it works, it ain't stupid." I've never forgotten that maxim and so I judge shaving gear not on popularity or lack of it but on how it works for me. As a result, I've long used various obsolete shaving supplies and eccentric devices which rendered me something of an oddball among wetshavers. I also get consistently great results from an much-maligned but admittedly overpriced multiblade razor. But as a wise man once said, "It's all about the shave." Those are words I live by.
So when I'd heard good things about the Shake Sharp razor and saw how it is supposed to work, I was cautiously intrigued. When the opportunity came up, I got one.
What is the Shake Sharp? It's a long-dead type of safety razor from the 1940s. Its main selling point was that it is not merely a safety razor (there were literally dozens if not hundreds available back then) but also a self-contained double-edge razor blade hone. That might sound gimmicky since every area of the marketplace back in the early half of the last century was saturated with gimmicks (it still is), especially where shaving items were involved (it still is). Times were tighter than they generally are now, so if a guy had a chance at stretching something as (even then) relatively cheap as a razor blade, it was worth a shot. Having a considerable amount of Scot in me, so did I and for the very same reason.
So the big question is, Does the Shake Sharp work?
Short answer: Yes it does, and it does so even better than I'd expected.
Luckily, mine was apparently in mint unused condition all the way around; the gold finish is gorgeous but condition was most important for the stone. After all, if the stone is worn or shot it wouldn't make any difference what shape the razor itself is in. I don't know exactly what compound the stone is composed of but mine is in excellent shape and - most importantly - it DOES do what it says.
The first thing I did after the typical cleaning routine was to choose a carbon blade to test out the honing feature.
By the way: I am very reluctant to hone stainless blades in this razor for two reasons. First, it seems to me that, being a harder steel, stainless would have to wear out this very difficult to replace if not irreplaceable hone much sooner than using the softer carbon blades it was designed for. I may be mistaken on that, but I doubt it. Second, for me the jury is still out on whether stainless blades even CAN be effectively honed, or if they can, whether it's worth the effort. When it comes to carbons, though, there's no question - if you can do it right, it's worth it.
To test the hone, I marked up the edge of the blade with a red Sharpie...being just ink, it would quickly show whether the hone touched the edge of the blade evenly, if at all.
Result: the entire edge of the blade was sanded clean of Sharpie, though about 30% of the edge was not done as evenly as the rest. Still, the extreme cutting edge itself - the part that actually matters - was visibly de-inked the entire length of the blade. A good sign, though only time would tell whether the Shake Sharp would live up to its claim to fame by maintaining an edge, thereby increasing a blade's longevity.
On an admittedly reckless impulse, I very carefully pried the stone loose and reversed it (this is extremely foolhardy since one wrong move and the whole stone could have cracked or shattered). Luckily it did not,* so I reclamped the reversed stone and repeated the Sharpie test. This time the edge was de-inked evenly the whole length of the blade.
Now it was time for the moment of truth!
With two full days growth, I prepped and lathered. Long story short, I received a wonderful two-pass BBS (baby butt smooth) shave. The brand of carbon blade I chose performed as well as it ever does but, giving it a dozen or so shakes every 30 seconds or so - probably more than I needed to give it - the shave was perfectly smooth sailing the whole time, with none of the edge-dulled pulling typical to carbons as the shave progresses. The end result after both passes was not one nick and no irritation, either. A splendid shave!
The proper cutting angle of the Shake Sharp mimics that of the Guiding Eye gimmick found on some Gem Micromatics -- meaning the head is held pretty much flat against the face. Blade noise is also surprising as it resonates almost as loudly as early single edge razors do.
The safety bar is deeply ribbed; at a distance, squinting, one could mistake it for an open comb. In fact, it resembles one of the combs on that uber-aggressive bakelite monster, the Neillite 400. I'm pretty sure that between the deep combs and the hone feature - which can easily knock out soap sludge mid-shave - it could take off my yearly goatee without choking on it like most safety bar DEs do. We'll see come next Spring. EDIT: Decided to mow off my goat; the Shake Sharp didn't even blink. So now, my beloved Gillette NEW is obsolete, too.
As an unexpected bonus, this razor surprised me with various aesthetic elements which resemble features I've always found pleasing in other razors. For example, the cap of the head is rounded, mimicking the curved profile of my favorite ancient Gem/Ever Ready razors, most notably the Damaskene. Whatever the razor, I've long been convinced that this curve definitely makes for a nicer shave.
Something else I liked: While the razor has a slightly short handle (the only drawback I can name), it's tolerable because what it lacks in length it makes up for in girth and really grippy knurling that resembles Gillette's old Bar handle, also a favorite of mine.
Overall, the razor is not as heavy as it would appear at first glance. Due to the stone, the weight is mostly in the head but the balance does not seem to suffer for this. The cutting angle finds itself, and quickly.
CONCLUSION: The Shake Sharp is, so far, the best $30 I've ever spent for a razor. It is wonderfully designed, handsomely finished, comfortable to use, shaves very well and lives up to its main selling point: It extends the life of carbon blades indefinitely. Is it going to replace my venerable Gillettes and Schicks? Yes, very probably it will replace most of them. Even after one shave I know some of them have just been rendered obsolete, along with various stropping and honing paraphernalia I've acquired over the years.
If you have a chance to obtain a Shake Sharp with a good hone, and if you use carbon blades, I'd advise you not to pass it up. It's worth a reasonable price (whatever you decide that is). If you're primarily a stainless user, I'd be leery of using it to hone them much at all, just for the sake of the stone's longevity.
*After pondering it awhile, I came up with an idea for a replacement hone that I'm reasonably sure would be close to if not just as effective, if the original ever wears out or breaks. I just hope it's a long time before I need to put this idea to the test. Since the stone can be swapped around, though, and since I don't use carbon blades exclusively, I hope to be in my box before wear really becomes an issue.
Saturday, September 15, 2012
This is the boring but obligatory inaugural post of Modo's cleverly titled Safety Razor Review. It will feature occasional thoughts on shaving equipment and supplies from the last century to this one, from vintage Gillettes to modern multiblade monstrosities.
The first real review will be of the Shake Sharp safety razor, an obscure but truly unique piece of safety razor history. Will it suck? Will it be miraculous? I dunno, it hasn't arrived yet.
Posts may be infrequent but I hope you'll find them informative or, at least, semi-amusing timewasters. You never know what I'm going to review because I never know. No razor is too cheap, no soap too unappealing, no aftershave too offensive to go unreviewed.
Thanks for bookmarking; stop by again sometime.
The first real review will be of the Shake Sharp safety razor, an obscure but truly unique piece of safety razor history. Will it suck? Will it be miraculous? I dunno, it hasn't arrived yet.
Posts may be infrequent but I hope you'll find them informative or, at least, semi-amusing timewasters. You never know what I'm going to review because I never know. No razor is too cheap, no soap too unappealing, no aftershave too offensive to go unreviewed.
Thanks for bookmarking; stop by again sometime.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)